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3 Days in Fes: Itinerary 2026
Start your first day in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the ancient walled city. Begin at Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate) around 9 AM, then wander down Talaa Kebira, the main thoroug… 🗺️ Day 1: Old Medina
Start your first day in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the ancient walled city. Begin at Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate) around 9 AM, then wander down Talaa Kebira, the main thoroughfare, to the Bou Inania Madrasa (open 9 AM to 6 PM, entry 20 dirhams). In the afternoon, visit the tanneries at Chouara, best viewed from the terraces of nearby leather shops, and end with a stroll through the souks before dinner at a rooftop restaurant like Cafe Clock (7 Derb El Magana, mains around 80 dirhams).
🏛️ Day 2: Royal Palace and Jewish Quarter
Dedicate your second morning to the Royal Palace (Dar el-Makhzen) and the Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter. The palace gates are impressive from the outside, and the Mellah's streets lead to the Ibn Danan Synagogue (open 10 AM to 5 PM, free but donations appreciated). After lunch at a local spot like Restaurant Dar Tajine (2 Derb Sbaa, set menu 120 dirhams), visit the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts (open 10 AM to 5 PM, entry 50 dirhams).
🏞️ Day 3: Fes el-Jdid and Gardens
Spend your final day in Fes el-Jdid, the newer part of the city, which is less crowded and offers a different perspective. Start at the Borj Nord fortress (open 9 AM to 6 PM, entry 10 dirhams) for panoramic views, then walk down to the Jardin Jnan Sbil, a peaceful park with fountains and exotic plants. In the afternoon, visit the Pottery Quarter in Ain Nokbi, where you can watch artisans at work, and finish with a relaxing mint tea at a cafe near the Bab Semmarine gate.
🚌 Getting Around
Fes is compact, but the medina is a maze, so plan for walking and allow extra time to get lost. From the new town (Ville Nouvelle) to Bab Bou Jeloud, a taxi costs about 20 dirhams and takes 15 minutes; from the train station, it's a 10-minute ride. For day trips, the CTM bus station is near the Ville Nouvelle, and a taxi to the airport takes 30 minutes and costs around 150 dirhams.
🍽️ Where to Eat
For authentic Fassi cuisine, try Restaurant Riad Fes (5 Derb Ben Slimane, set menu 150 dirhams) or the more casual Snack Benjelloun (12 Rue Bou Khessissat, sandwiches from 30 dirhams). For a sweet treat, head to Patisserie La Kahena (1 Avenue Hassan II, pastries 10 to 20 dirhams) in the Ville Nouvelle. Always check opening hours, as many places close between 3 PM and 6 PM.
💡 Practical Tips
Dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites, and carry small bills for purchases and tips. Bargaining is expected in the souks, but keep it friendly and start at about half the asking price. Be cautious with unofficial guides who may demand payment; stick to licensed guides from the tourist office. Also, keep your valuables secure and avoid carrying large amounts of cash.
🌙 Evening Activities
Evenings in Fes are best spent enjoying the medina's atmosphere from a rooftop terrace. Cafe Clock (7 Derb El Magana) offers live music some nights and a great view of the city. For a more upscale experience, book a dinner at Riad Laaroussa (3 Derb Bechara, set menu 250 dirhams), which serves traditional dishes in a restored palace. If you're up for a walk, the illuminated Bab Bou Jeloud is a beautiful sight after dark.
solid guide honestly. one thing id add: skip the terrace at the first leather shop that grabs u near the tanneries. theyll push u to buy stuff and the view is meh. walk a bit further up talaa kebira and find the cafe at the top of the dye pits, costs like 10 dirhams for a mint tea and u get the whole panorama without the hard sell.
also for day 3, the pottery quarter is cool but if u got time, walk to the marabout of sidi harazem just outside ain nokbi, it's a bit of a hike but the tile work is unreal and barely any tourists. and for food, dont sleep on the street stalls near bab guissa at night, grilled meat skewers for like 15 dirhams, way better than any sit-down spot tbh.
one warning tho: the royal palace gates are impressive but thats it, dont waste more than 10 min there. the mellah is where the real history is, especially the old jewish cemetery if u can find the caretaker to let u in. tip him 20 dirhams and he'll tell u stories that make the guidebooks look boring.
appreciate the detail here, especially the timings. one thing i'd add for day 1: the tanneries smell is no joke, so grab a sprig of fresh mint from any spice stall before u go up to the terrace. costs like 2 dirhams and makes the whole thing bearable. also, the leather shops charge for the "guided tour" of the terraces, so just say u only want the view and tip 5 dirhams at the top instead.
for day 2, skip the royal palace gates entirely if u're short on time, honestly the mellah is way more interesting. the old synagogues are tiny and mostly empty, but the streets themselves have this quiet faded beauty that the medina lacks. and if u're into food, there's a hole in the wall place near the mellah called Restaurant Rimal, does a killer lentil soup and kefta tagine for like 35 dirhams. not in any guidebook i've seen, but the owner's been there since the 80s.
one more thing: day 3's garden is lovely but it closes at 6 sharp, so go early. and the taxi from borj nord back down to the medina is a ripoff, they'll quote u 50 dirhams for a 5 min ride. just walk down, it's all downhill and takes 20 min, past the old city walls which are
Good outline, covers the essentials without overloading. One thing I'd add for day 1: the Bou Inania madrasa is worth it, but time your visit for right when it opens at 9 AM. By 10:30 the tour groups pile in and the courtyard gets packed, you'll have it almost to yourself if you're early.
For day 2, after the Mellah, walk over to the old Fez river (Oued Bou Khrareb) that runs along the edge of the medina. There's a stretch near the Merenid tombs side where locals do their laundry and kids jump in, it's a completely different vibe from the souks and you'll see how the city actually lives. No ticket, just a nice detour before lunch.
And for evening, instead of another rooftop, head to the Dar Batha museum garden around 5 PM. It closes at 6 but the light hits the fountains and tile work beautifully in that last hour, and it's free on Fridays. Grab a bench near the orange trees, it's a quiet spot to decompress before dinner.
Where to Stay in Fes (2026)
The ancient Medina is the heart of Fes, with winding alleys and historic riads. It's perfect for first-timers who want to be steps from the souks and monuments. Budget travelers ca… 🏘️ Medina Magic
The ancient Medina is the heart of Fes, with winding alleys and historic riads. It's perfect for first-timers who want to be steps from the souks and monuments. Budget travelers can find simple guesthouses for around 150-300 MAD per night, while mid-range riads cost 400-800 MAD. Be prepared for noise and a labyrinthine layout, so pack light and consider hiring a porter.
🌆 Ville Nouvelle
The French-built Ville Nouvelle offers a more modern, spacious alternative to the Medina. It's ideal for families and those who prefer wider streets and easier parking. Hotels here range from 300-700 MAD for standard rooms, with upscale options like the Palais Medina & Spa starting around 1,000 MAD. You'll find plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops, plus easy access to the train station.
🌙 Nightlife Hub
For evening entertainment, the Ville Nouvelle's Avenue Hassan II is the main strip, with bars and lounges like the Skybar at the Hotel Les Merinides. The area around the Borj Fez Mall also has a few modern cafes and restaurants that stay open late. Expect to pay 40-80 MAD for a local beer or cocktail. This is the best spot for travelers who want a lively night scene without straying far from their hotel.
💸 Family Friendly
Families often prefer the calm of the Ville Nouvelle or the edge of the Medina, where riads have more space and easy access for taxis. The Riad Fes Maya in the Medina offers family suites and a pool, with rates from 900 MAD. In the Ville Nouvelle, the Ibis Fes (around 400 MAD) is a reliable budget choice. Look for accommodations with courtyards or gardens where kids can play safely.
💻 Digital Nomads
Digital nomads will find the Ville Nouvelle more practical, with reliable Wi-Fi and coworking spaces like the CoWorking Fes near Place Florence. Monthly apartment rentals in this area range from 3,000-5,000 MAD, including utilities. For a riad experience with good internet, try the Riad Dar Bensouda in the Medina, which offers a shared workspace. Cafes like the Clock Cafe in the Ville Nouvelle are also laptop-friendly during the day.
💰 Budget Stays
Backpackers can find dorm beds in the Medina for as little as 60-100 MAD at hostels like the Funky Fes. Simple guesthouses, known as dar, offer private rooms for 150-250 MAD, often with breakfast included. In the Ville Nouvelle, budget hotels like the Hotel Central start around 200 MAD. Always check if the price includes breakfast and whether there is hot water, as some budget options have limited amenities.
🚌 Getting Around
From the Medina, the main gate Bab Boujloud is a hub for taxis and buses. A petit taxi ride within the city costs about 10-20 MAD, while a grand taxi to the airport is around 120 MAD. The city bus line 19 connects the Medina to the Ville Nouvelle for just 5 MAD. For exploring the hills, consider hiring a private driver for the day, which typically costs 300-500 MAD.
Solid breakdown, the Medina vs Ville Nouvelle split is spot on. I'd add that if you're in the Medina, don't bother trying to navigate by map alone, just ask shopkeepers or kids for directions to Bab Boujloud and they'll point you through the maze. For a quieter stay with a view, check out the riads up near the Borj Nord, you're a bit removed from the souk chaos but the terrace sunsets over the whole city are worth the walk. Also, the petit taxi drivers from the Ville Nouvelle often refuse to go deep into the Medina after dark, so if you're out late, plan to get dropped at the nearest gate and walk the last bit, it's safe and locals do it all the time.
honestly the guide nails the basics but one thing it misses is how much the medina changes after dark. if you're staying there, the riads lock their front doors around 11pm and you get a key to the main gate, but the alleys are pitch black and the souks empty out fast. i learned that the hard way stumbling back from a rooftop dinner near the tanneries, so bring a phone flashlight or a headlamp, it's non-negotiable.
also for the nightlife crowd, the Skybar at Les Merinides is cool for the view but the drinks are tourist prices. instead, hit the little wine bar tucked behind the Hotel Batha, it's mostly locals, a bottle of local red runs like 80 MAD and they serve decent tapas. not fancy but way more fun.
and if you're on a budget, skip the hostel dorms and look for a dar near the Andalusian quarter, that side of the medina is quieter and you can find rooms for 120 MAD with a killer rooftop. the walk to Bab Boujloud is 15 mins but you'll pass the best bakeries on the way, fresh msemen for 2 MAD.
The guide is pretty much on point, I'd just say don't sleep on the Ville Nouvelle for food. The medina gets all the hype for street eats, but some of my best meals in Fes were at simple spots around Place Florence, especially the grilled meat places that do kefta and brochettes for like 30 MAD. Also, if you're in the medina in summer, pack earplugs, the dawn call to prayer echoes off those narrow walls like crazy, and the roosters start before it anyway.