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what to eat in fes?
you gotta eat a pastilla while you're here, the sweet and savory pigeon pie thing is iconic. for a solid one, try restaurant al fassia in the ville nouvelle, it's pricier but the real deal. also, don't skip the street food stall at place r'cif for a late-night bowl of harira, that soup is perfect after a long day in the medina
The food scene here is all about layers of flavor. For a proper introduction, find a place that serves rfissa, it's shredded msemen with chicken, lentils, and a fenugreek broth that's deeply savory and a little sweet. I'd skip the tourist traps near the Blue Gate and walk a few blocks into the medina for better versions at half the price. Also, keep an eye out for small bakeries selling harsha, that semolina flatbread is perfect with a glass of mint tea in the morning.
honestly the street food game in fes is unmatched. hit up the tanneries area and grab some brochettes from the little grills tucked in the alleys, they're like 5 dirhams each and way better than the sit-down places. also, if you see a guy selling snails (babbouche) near bab boujloud, try a bowl with the spicy broth, it's a weird texture but the locals swear by it for cold evenings
Where to Stay in Fes (2026)
The ancient Medina is the heart of Fes, with winding alleys and historic riads. It's perfect for first-timers who want to be steps from the souks and monuments. Budget travelers ca… 🏘️ Medina Magic
The ancient Medina is the heart of Fes, with winding alleys and historic riads. It's perfect for first-timers who want to be steps from the souks and monuments. Budget travelers can find simple guesthouses for around 150-300 MAD per night, while mid-range riads cost 400-800 MAD. Be prepared for noise and a labyrinthine layout, so pack light and consider hiring a porter.
🌆 Ville Nouvelle
The French-built Ville Nouvelle offers a more modern, spacious alternative to the Medina. It's ideal for families and those who prefer wider streets and easier parking. Hotels here range from 300-700 MAD for standard rooms, with upscale options like the Palais Medina & Spa starting around 1,000 MAD. You'll find plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops, plus easy access to the train station.
🌙 Nightlife Hub
For evening entertainment, the Ville Nouvelle's Avenue Hassan II is the main strip, with bars and lounges like the Skybar at the Hotel Les Merinides. The area around the Borj Fez Mall also has a few modern cafes and restaurants that stay open late. Expect to pay 40-80 MAD for a local beer or cocktail. This is the best spot for travelers who want a lively night scene without straying far from their hotel.
💸 Family Friendly
Families often prefer the calm of the Ville Nouvelle or the edge of the Medina, where riads have more space and easy access for taxis. The Riad Fes Maya in the Medina offers family suites and a pool, with rates from 900 MAD. In the Ville Nouvelle, the Ibis Fes (around 400 MAD) is a reliable budget choice. Look for accommodations with courtyards or gardens where kids can play safely.
💻 Digital Nomads
Digital nomads will find the Ville Nouvelle more practical, with reliable Wi-Fi and coworking spaces like the CoWorking Fes near Place Florence. Monthly apartment rentals in this area range from 3,000-5,000 MAD, including utilities. For a riad experience with good internet, try the Riad Dar Bensouda in the Medina, which offers a shared workspace. Cafes like the Clock Cafe in the Ville Nouvelle are also laptop-friendly during the day.
💰 Budget Stays
Backpackers can find dorm beds in the Medina for as little as 60-100 MAD at hostels like the Funky Fes. Simple guesthouses, known as dar, offer private rooms for 150-250 MAD, often with breakfast included. In the Ville Nouvelle, budget hotels like the Hotel Central start around 200 MAD. Always check if the price includes breakfast and whether there is hot water, as some budget options have limited amenities.
🚌 Getting Around
From the Medina, the main gate Bab Boujloud is a hub for taxis and buses. A petit taxi ride within the city costs about 10-20 MAD, while a grand taxi to the airport is around 120 MAD. The city bus line 19 connects the Medina to the Ville Nouvelle for just 5 MAD. For exploring the hills, consider hiring a private driver for the day, which typically costs 300-500 MAD.
Solid breakdown, the Medina vs Ville Nouvelle split is spot on. I'd add that if you're in the Medina, don't bother trying to navigate by map alone, just ask shopkeepers or kids for directions to Bab Boujloud and they'll point you through the maze. For a quieter stay with a view, check out the riads up near the Borj Nord, you're a bit removed from the souk chaos but the terrace sunsets over the whole city are worth the walk. Also, the petit taxi drivers from the Ville Nouvelle often refuse to go deep into the Medina after dark, so if you're out late, plan to get dropped at the nearest gate and walk the last bit, it's safe and locals do it all the time.
honestly the guide nails the basics but one thing it misses is how much the medina changes after dark. if you're staying there, the riads lock their front doors around 11pm and you get a key to the main gate, but the alleys are pitch black and the souks empty out fast. i learned that the hard way stumbling back from a rooftop dinner near the tanneries, so bring a phone flashlight or a headlamp, it's non-negotiable.
also for the nightlife crowd, the Skybar at Les Merinides is cool for the view but the drinks are tourist prices. instead, hit the little wine bar tucked behind the Hotel Batha, it's mostly locals, a bottle of local red runs like 80 MAD and they serve decent tapas. not fancy but way more fun.
and if you're on a budget, skip the hostel dorms and look for a dar near the Andalusian quarter, that side of the medina is quieter and you can find rooms for 120 MAD with a killer rooftop. the walk to Bab Boujloud is 15 mins but you'll pass the best bakeries on the way, fresh msemen for 2 MAD.
The guide is pretty much on point, I'd just say don't sleep on the Ville Nouvelle for food. The medina gets all the hype for street eats, but some of my best meals in Fes were at simple spots around Place Florence, especially the grilled meat places that do kefta and brochettes for like 30 MAD. Also, if you're in the medina in summer, pack earplugs, the dawn call to prayer echoes off those narrow walls like crazy, and the roosters start before it anyway.