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Budget tips for Tana?
You'll get by on 30,000 to 50,000 ariary a day if you stick to street food like brochettes and koba from vendors near Analakely market. Transport is cheap, taxi-be rides around town are usually 1,000 to 2,000 ariary per person if you share. Most sights like the Rova or Ambohimanga cost under 10,000 ariary, but skip the pricey tour guides if you want to save. For a nicer restaurant dinner in the Haute-Ville area, budget closer to 80,000 ariary for a full meal with drinks.
Honestly, if you're willing to eat at the little hotely joints near the market, a plate of rice with a side of meat and greens is usually around 5,000 ariary. For transport, negotiate fares for pousse-pousse (rickshaws) before you get in, or you'll pay tourist prices.
another thing to keep in mind is that a lot of the cool stuff around tana is free or close to it. walking up to the top of the hill near the train station gives you an incredible view of the city and costs nothing. also, the botanical garden in tsimbazaza is like 2,000 ariary to get in, which is basically pocket change. just bring cash, most places don't take cards and atms can be hit or miss with fees. if you're staying in a hostel with a kitchen, buying rice and veggies at the analakely market will save you a ton on meals, a bag of rice is like 5,000 ariary and lasts a week
3 Days in Antananarivo: Itinerary 2026
Start your trip in the Haute-Ville (Upper Town), the historic heart of Antananarivo. Visit the Rova of Antananarivo, the royal palace complex, which reopened after restoration… 🗺️ Day 1: Upper Town
Start your trip in the Haute-Ville (Upper Town), the historic heart of Antananarivo. Visit the Rova of Antananarivo, the royal palace complex, which reopened after restoration in 2025; it's open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM, entry is 10,000 Ariary. Walk down to the nearby Andohalo Cathedral, a striking neo-Gothic landmark, and then explore the artisan market at Analakely for souvenirs.
🍽️ Lunch and Afternoon
Have lunch at La Varangue, a French-Malagasy restaurant at 17 Rue Georges V, with mains around 25,000-40,000 Ariary. In the afternoon, head to the Is'Art Galerie at 3 Rue de la Révolution for contemporary Malagasy art (free entry, open 10 AM-6 PM). End the day with a stroll through the Parc de Tsimbazaza, a small zoo and botanical garden (entry 5,000 Ariary, closes at 5 PM).
🚶 Day 2: Lower Town
Dedicate Day 2 to the Basse-Ville (Lower Town) around Avenue de l'Indépendance. Start at the Marché d'Analakely, a bustling open-air market best visited in the morning (8 AM-noon). Then visit the Musée de la Photographie de Madagascar at 28 Rue de la Réunion (entry 5,000 Ariary, open 10 AM-5 PM). For lunch, try the street food stalls near the gare (train station) for samosas and mofo gasy (Malagasy donuts) for under 2,000 Ariary.
🏛️ Museums and Culture
In the afternoon, explore the Musée d'Art et d'Archéologie at 17 Rue Docteur Villette (entry 5,000 Ariary, open 9 AM-4 PM). Afterwards, take a taxi to the Crocodile Farm (Parc Ivoloina) about 30 minutes east of the city center (entry 10,000 Ariary, open 9 AM-5 PM). Return for dinner at Le Bistrot du Voyageur, 2 Rue de la Réunion, where a three-course meal costs around 30,000 Ariary.
🌿 Day 3: Nature Escape
On your final day, take a morning trip to Lemurs' Park (Parc de Lémuriens), a 45-minute drive from the city (entry 30,000 Ariary, open 9 AM-5 PM). You'll see several lemur species in a natural setting. Alternatively, visit the Tsarasaotra Park, a smaller bird sanctuary near the airport (entry 10,000 Ariary, best visited at dawn or dusk).
🛍️ Shopping and Souvenirs
After returning to town, head to the Digue Market (Marché de la Digue) for handicrafts, textiles, and vanilla (open 8 AM-6 PM). Bargaining is expected; a scarf costs around 10,000-15,000 Ariary. For last-minute gifts, the airport's duty-free shop has local rum and spices, but prices are higher.
🚕 Getting Around
Taxis are the most convenient way to get around Antananarivo; negotiate the fare before starting, with short trips costing 5,000-10,000 Ariary. For longer distances to Lemurs' Park, expect 60,000-80,000 Ariary one way. Avoid rush hours (7-9 AM and 4-6 PM) when traffic is gridlocked. Alternatively, use the local bus (taxi-be) for 500-1,000 Ariary, but routes can be confusing.
💡 Practical Tips
ATMs are widely available in the city center but may run out of cash on weekends; carry enough Ariary for markets and taxis. The local currency is the Ariary; exchange rates at banks are better than at hotels. Learn a few phrases in Malagasy like 'Misaotra' (thank you) and 'Veloma' (goodbye) to connect with locals.
yeah this is a pretty thorough guide, nice work. for Day 1, if you're at the Is'Art Galerie already, walk two blocks east to the small patisserie on Rue de la Révolution called Chez Luc. their croissants are 1,500 Ariary and they have a mango tart that's honestly the best I've had in the city, get there before 3 PM or they run out.
for Day 3, skip Tsarasaotra unless you're a hardcore birder, the mosquitoes there are brutal and the viewing hides are kinda run down. instead go to the Lac Anosy market on Saturday morning, it's a flea market vibe with old vinyl records, vintage postcards and weird antiques, I found a 1960s map of Tana for 5,000 Ariary. opens around 7 AM, haggle hard.
one thing the guide doesn't mention is that the taxi-be drivers will try to charge tourists triple the fare, especially near the gare. if you flag one down, just hold up your fingers for the route number and say the stop name, don't say you're a visitor. the 143 bus from Analakely to the Rova area is 600 Ariary and runs every 10 minutes.
The guide's spot on about La Varangue, but if you want a more casual lunch in Upper Town, try the tiny crepe stand near the Andohalo Cathedral steps. It's run by a woman named Mamy, and her mofo anana (fried rice cakes with greens) are about 500 Ariary each, fresh and hot around 11 AM. I'd also swap the Crocodile Farm for a late afternoon drink at the rooftop bar of the Hotel Colbert on Rue du 26 Juin 1960, the view of the lit-up Rova at sunset is better than any reptile pit and a beer is around 8,000 Ariary.
honestly this is a solid itinerary, covers most of the main spots. one thing i'd add is that the Rova reopening was a big deal but the view from up there is still kinda blocked by construction scaffolding on the east side, so go early morning or late afternoon for better light on the city below.
for Day 2, if you're already at Analakely market, swing by the small shop on Rue de la Reine that sells real vanilla pods, way cheaper than the tourist stalls and the quality is much better. i paid 1,000 Ariary per pod last time and they lasted months.
also, Lemurs' Park is worth the drive but the road can be bumpy, especially after rain. bring cash for the entry because their card machine was down when i went in October. the guided tour is included in the price and the guide speaks English, so ask for Jean-Pierre if he's around, he knows every lemur by name.