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Do you own a medium or large dog while living in Tokyo?
Did you have trouble finding an apartment that allows for your dog's size? Do you have trouble bringing your dog to the vet? Do you ever travel (via train, bus, shinkansen) with your dog in a carry case? What are some troubles you didn't foresee having?
My partner and I are moving in a few months, and we want to move to a dog-friendly place so we can get a dog shortly thereafter. Doing some research, we've found that a lot of apartments will specify that small dogs (up to a certain weight) are allowed, but bigger ones, even what I would consider small-medium, are not. We want to stay within the 23 wards, so we're going to have to compromise, it looks like.
Now, my dream dog is a golden retriever or a lab, and I realize that's impossible without moving to the suburbs or being insanely rich, so I've gotten my expectations down to a medium dog instead. However, it's seeming like even that is impossible...
So I'm really curious if anyone has a medium or large dog, if you could share what your experience has been like.
Grateful to hear any experience so we can do our due diligence before choosing a new place, and a new buddy to share that place with us.
the 10kg limit is real but there's a weird loophole sometimes - some landlords will list "small dog only" but if you ask directly about a specific breed they'll budge. we got our 14kg corgi into a place in kichijoji that technically said 5kg max just by having our agent negotiate. it took like 3 weeks of back and forth.
one thing nobody warned me about was the summer heat with a bigger dog. sidewalks get absolutely scorching by 10am and you can't walk them without booties. also most dog runs in the 23 wards have those rubber mats that smell terrible after a rain. we go to the one in shinjuku gyoen sometimes but it's 500 yen entry.
for grooming, we use a mobile grooming van that comes to our apartment. costs about 8000 yen for a full cut but beats carrying a 14kg dog through the station. there's a few companies that do it, just search 訪問トリミング.
honestly, medium is still tough in the 23 wards. most landlords cap it at 10kg or under, and even then they'll wanna see the breed. I've got a 15kg shiba mix and it took us like 4 months to find a place in setagaya that said yes. we went through a real estate agent that specializes in pet-friendly listings, it's worth the extra fee.
for vet access, there's a good 24h clinic in meguro that handles larger dogs fine, but you'll prob need a car or taxi for anything urgent. trains are a no-go unless your dog fits in a carrier under the seat, which means max like 8kg. shinkansen is even stricter, they weigh the carrier at the gate. we just drive everywhere now.
one thing i didn't expect was how many parks ban dogs or have leash rules that make it hard to let them run. yoyogi park has a dog run but it's tiny and always packed. we mostly walk along the tama river now, way more space.
Yeah the size thing is brutal. We have a 12kg beagle and even that was a battle. Most pet-friendly listings we found had a 10kg limit written in the contract, and once they see the dog they can still say no. We ended up in a place near Nakano that didn't have an elevator, which was a pain for the first year but honestly fine now. The real surprise was finding a groomer. A lot of them won't take dogs over 10kg either, and the ones that do charge way more than I expected. We found one in S
Where to Stay in Tokyo (2026)
Shinjuku is perfect for first-timers who want nonstop energy, neon lights, and endless dining options. Budget travelers can stay near Shinjuku Station for easy acce… 🏙️ Shinjuku: The Heart of Tokyo
Shinjuku is perfect for first-timers who want nonstop energy, neon lights, and endless dining options. Budget travelers can stay near Shinjuku Station for easy access to the Yamanote Line, with hostels like Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki starting around $30 per night. For a splurge, the Park Hyatt Tokyo offers skyline views from $500 per night.
🌸 Shibuya: Trendy and Youthful
Shibuya is ideal for nightlife lovers and fashion-forward visitors, with the iconic Scramble Crossing right outside your door. Mid-range hotels like the Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu run $150-250 per night, while capsule hotels like Nine Hours Shibuya offer a budget option at $40. Families might prefer quieter streets just a 10-minute walk from the station.
🏯 Asakusa: Traditional and Budget-Friendly
Asakusa offers a glimpse of old Tokyo with Senso-ji Temple and Nakamise Street, perfect for culture seekers and families. Budget ryokans like Ryokan Asakusa Shigetsu start at $80 per night, including a traditional breakfast. The area is quieter at night, so night owls may want to stay closer to Ueno or Akihabara.
🌳 Ueno: Family-Friendly and Cultural
Ueno is excellent for families thanks to Ueno Park, the zoo, and several museums all within walking distance. Hotels like the Ueno Station Hostel Oriental I offer dorm beds from $25, while the Mitsui Garden Hotel Ueno costs around $120 per night. The area is well-connected by JR and metro lines, making day trips easy.
💻 Shibuya and Shinjuku for Digital Nomads
Digital nomads should look at Shibuya or Shinjuku for coworking spaces and reliable Wi-Fi. The Shibuya Stream building has a free coworking lounge, and nearby cafes like Fuglen Tokyo offer strong coffee and outlets. Monthly apartment rentals via services like Sakura House start around $1,000 in these areas.
🌆 Roppongi: Nightlife and Luxury
Roppongi is the go-to for upscale nightlife, with clubs like V2 Tokyo and high-end bars. Luxury hotels such as the Grand Hyatt Tokyo start at $400 per night, while business hotels like the Roppongi Plaza Hotel offer rooms from $100. The area is also close to art museums like Mori Art Museum.
🚃 Getting Around: Station Proximity Matters
Staying near a Yamanote Line station (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Tokyo, Ueno) saves time and money on transit. A 24-hour metro pass costs 800 yen and covers Tokyo Metro and Toei lines. Avoid staying too far from a station, as taxis are expensive (starting at 420 yen for the first kilometer).
💰 Price Tiers and Budget Tips
Budget travelers can find capsule hotels or hostels for $20-40 per night in areas like Asakusa or Ueno. Mid-range business hotels (Toyoko Inn, APA Hotels) average $80-120 per night. For luxury, expect $300-600 per night in central districts. Book early for cherry blossom season (late March to early April).
honestly the guide nailed it but i'd throw in nakameguro for anyone visiting in spring. the canal walk during cherry blossom season is insane, way less crowded than ueno or shinjuku gyoen. plus there's a killer onigiri spot called Onigiri Bongo that sells out by noon, and the area has a ton of tiny wine bars and vintage shops. rooms at the Claska hotel start around $120 and it's a quick hop to shibuya on the tokyu line
solid write-up, covers the big ones well. for my money, if you're a food nerd, staying near a good tsukemen or ramen spot is a legit strategy. i booked a hotel in takadanobaba once just cause i wanted to be walking distance from Taishoken, the tsukemen birthplace. that area is also full of student bars and cheap eats since Waseda Uni is there, rooms at the b:CONTE hotel run like $90 a night and it's two stops from Shinjuku on the Yamanote. way less tourist crush than Shibuya for late-night bowls
This is a solid breakdown, really covers the main bases well. One thing I'd add for anyone staying in Shinjuku is that the station itself can be overwhelming even for locals, so picking a hotel on the west side near the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building is a good hack. The views from the free observation deck there are just as good as the paid ones, and you avoid the chaos of the east exit. For cheap eats in that area, the basement floor of Takashimaya department store has incredible takeout bento boxes under 1,000 yen that beat most convenience store meals.