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San Giovanni's Secret?
you know that little piazza at the top of via sannio, near the market stalls? there's a forno called panificio bonci that does pizza bianca right out of the oven, crispy and salty, for like 2 euro a slice. grab it and sit on the steps of the church across the street, watching the old guys argue about politics. that's the vibe, not the basilica.
honestly just walk down via dei ligustri towards the caffarella valley entrance. there's a tiny bar called "da giuseppe" near the corner of via cressi, no sign just a red awning. grab a coffee and a maritozzo there, it's like 1.50 euro total and the owner remembers everyone's name. then keep walking into the park past the old roman aqueducts, it's where locals go for their evening passeggiata with their dogs or kids, completely different world from the basilica crowds.
Oh for crying out loud, you're asking like there's some secret handshake you need to learn. San Giovanni isn't hiding anything. Walk a few blocks off the main drag toward via lazio and you'll hit the market at piazza dei sannio around 9am on a Saturday
What are current tobacco prices for LM Blue or Chesterfield Blue?
tbh duty free at Riga is only worth it if you're buying cartons, single packs at the airport arent that much cheaper than teh tabaccai in Rome. also remember you can only bring a limited amount into the EU anyway so stockpiling has its limits
Chesterfield Blue usually runs around 5.50 to 6 euros a pack in Rome these days, though tabaccai prices are fixed by the state so it won't vary much shop to shop. Riga is generally cheaper for cigarettes but your layover time matters, if it's tight you might not have time to clear security and find a shop.
LM Blue in Rome is roughly the same ballpark, around 5.50 to 6 euros. One thing to keep in mind at Riga airport, the duty free selection isn't always great for specific brands like these, so if you're set on LM or Chesterfield you might strike out. I'd check what the actual duty free has before counting on it.