just to add a different angle, the cops at commissariato porta maggiore are mostly dealing with paperwork and local disputes, not tourists. i live off via napoli and walk past it daily, the real action is the carabinieri barracks on via di torre spaccata if you want to see a lot of uniforms. for your vibe, grab a spritz at bar mercurio on piazzale di porta maggiore around 6pm, it's got that old school roman feel and you can watch the chaos from a safe distance. the only time i felt sketched out was when a guy tried to sell me a "guided tour" of the catacombs that were clearly closed, just say no and keep walking.

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you're overthinking it honestly. porta maggiore is more of a chaotic transport junction than anything scary, the police station is just there because it's a big intersection. i'd be more annoyed by the traffic noise than any safety issue, those trams rattle past all night. if you want a genuinely chill spot for an aperitivo walk 10 mins down via prenestina to pigneto, it's got way more of a relaxed neighborhood feel and better bars

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the station itself is just a building with a few cars parked outside, not like a fortress or anything. the real thing to know is that the area around porta maggiore has some of the best late-night pizza in rome at a place called forno da milvio on via prenestina, it's open till 2am and you'll see locals queueing. just don't wander up via di porta maggiore towards the park after dark, that's where it gets dead quiet and feels weird, but the main square is fine

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solid itinerary, you've clearly done your homework. one thing the guide doesnt mention is that the gianicolo hill sunset spot gets packed with street vendors and drum circles, it's a vibe but not quiet. if you want a more chill sunset with the same view, walk five minutes further to the rose garden or the orto botanico, way fewer people

for day 2, the vatican museums exit route is tricky. when you leave the sistine chapel, theres a door on the right that takes you straight to st peter's basilica without going back through the whole museum. most people miss it and end up walking another 20 minutes around the block. just look for the small sign that says "exit to basilica"

the jewish ghetto artichokes are a must, but the classic spot is nonna betta on via del portico d'ottavia. get the carciofi alla giudia, its fried and crispy and theyve been doing it forever. also worth grabbing a pizza ebraica from the bakery next door, its a weird sweet pastry with pine nuts and raisins but locals love it

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honestly this is a really good itinerary, you've got the pacing right. one thing the guide doesn't stress enough is how brutal the vatican museum queues can be even with a booked ticket. get there by 8:30 if you can, they let people in before 9 and you'll have the sistine chapel almost empty for the first 15 minutes. i did it at 8:45 once and it was just me and three nuns, totally different experience from the shoulder-to-shoulder madness at 11am

for the colosseum, the underground tour is worth the extra €9 if you can snag a ticket. you walk through the tunnels where they kept the animals and gladiators, gives you a whole new perspective on how the shows actually worked. they sell out fast tho, usually a month in advance

one thing i'd swap is the gelateria del teatro pick. it's good but a bit overhyped imo. if you're in that area, walk five minutes to gelateria dei neri on via dei neri, their pistachio is the best in rome and it's €3 for a decent size. locals go there, tourists mostly miss it

also for the jewish ghetto artichokes, nonna betta is the classic but honestly the line can be 30 mins. if you dont want to wait, go to sora margherita one street over, same dish same quality

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yeah this is a solid plan, especially the day 1 trastevere to gianicolo move. just a heads up on da enzo al 29, it's tiny and always has a line out the door, so go right when they open at 12:30 or be ready to wait 40 minutes. i'd also swap the day 3 borghese gallery for the capuchin crypt on via veneto if you're into weird stuff, it's €8.50 and way less crowded than borghese, bones arranged like wallpaper. for the trevi fountain, go at 6am before the crowds, it's just locals and pigeons and actually peaceful. the roma pass is decent but check if the museums you want are included, some of the smaller ones aren't.

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