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Monteverde Mystery?
honestly the real magic is just getting lost in the maze of streets between via del marmorata and via di monte verde vecchio, like around the back of the old tram depot. there's a guy who restores antique frames and mirrors in a garage on via del gonfalone, no sign, just a half-open shutter and the smell of varnish. his stuff is pricey but if you bring him a photo of something you like he'll make you a copy for like 50 euros, way better than any souvenir shop. just go on a weekday afternoon when the street is quiet and you'll hear the music playing from his radio
The trick is that most of these workshops don't have storefronts or signs, they operate out of ground-floor apartments. Walk down Via di Monte Verde toward the Gianicolo side, and look for open courtyard gates between numbers 40 and 60. The ceramicist near there, a guy named Paolo, only works in the mornings and you have to ring the bell marked "Laboratorio" to get in. His stuff is all hand-painted with local Etruscan motifs, completely different from the mass-produced junk near Piazza San Cosimato.
Paolo's place is good but there's also a leatherworker, Marta, who works out of a tiny space on Vicolo del Cedro. It's a narrow alley off Via Fontana Vecchia, no sign at all, just a red door with a brass knocker. She does custom tooled belts and bags, and if you catch her in the afternoon she'll usually let you watch her work while you chat. Prices are fair too, about 40 euros for a belt, which is half what you'd pay in Trastevere.
What are current tobacco prices for LM Blue or Chesterfield Blue?
tbh duty free at Riga is only worth it if you're buying cartons, single packs at the airport arent that much cheaper than teh tabaccai in Rome. also remember you can only bring a limited amount into the EU anyway so stockpiling has its limits
Chesterfield Blue usually runs around 5.50 to 6 euros a pack in Rome these days, though tabaccai prices are fixed by the state so it won't vary much shop to shop. Riga is generally cheaper for cigarettes but your layover time matters, if it's tight you might not have time to clear security and find a shop.
LM Blue in Rome is roughly the same ballpark, around 5.50 to 6 euros. One thing to keep in mind at Riga airport, the duty free selection isn't always great for specific brands like these, so if you're set on LM or Chesterfield you might strike out. I'd check what the actual duty free has before counting on it.