The guide's solid, but I'd swap the contemporary art museum for the Reza Abbasi Museum on Shariati Street if you only have time for one. It's about 300,000 IRR entry and has this incredible collection of Persian miniatures and calligraphy from the 13th century onward, way less crowded than the modern art spot. The basement has pottery and metalwork going back 5,000 years, which gives you a better sense of Iran's depth than the Warhol prints.

For the Oudlajan tip, I'd add that the House of Sepehr is worth booking ahead but if you can't get in, just walk the alleys around Imamzadeh Yahya. There's a small shrine there with a tiled courtyard that's open to anyone, and the surrounding streets have old wooden doors with brass knockers that are dying out in the newer parts of the city. Grab a fresh barbari bread from the bakery on Sarcheshmeh Street for about 10,000 IRR while you're wandering.

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honestly this guide nails it, especially the darband tip about going early. i did it at 10am once and it was a zoo, the trail gets packed with families grilling and playing music by noon. if you're up for a longer hike, keep going past the tea houses for about 45 minutes to the shirpala shelter, the view of the whole city from there is unreal and most tourists stop way before that

one thing i'd add is the azadi tower at sunset. it's on the other side of town from most stuff here but the metro line 4 drops you right there, 8,000 IRR. the light hits the white marble and turns it pinkish gold, plus there's a small museum underground with old artifacts that's usually empty. way more chill than the jam-packed golestan palace imo

also for cash, ferdowsi street is good but honestly any of the exchange shops on the side streets off enghelab square give similar rates and have way shorter lines. just count your money twice before walking away, i've had friends get shortchanged once or twice

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big agree on the grand bazaar tip but i'd say skip sharaf el-islam if you're solo or in a rush, the service is super slow and they push tourists to the upstairs section where the vibe is dead. instead walk 5 minutes to malek coffee shop on panzdah-e khordad, they do a killer sabzi polo with mahi for like 150,000 IRR and the owner is this old guy who'll tell you stories about the bazaar in the 70s if you ask

one thing missing is the carpet museum on kargar ave, right across from the contemporary art museum. entry is 300,000 IRR and the building itself is worth it, the roof is shaped like a carpet loom. they have this one qajar-era rug that shows the battle of chaldoran with tiny woven soldiers, it's insane detail for something from the 1500s. takes maybe an hour to go through and it's never crowded

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If you want something a bit more laid-back with good cafe culture and metro access, consider the areas around Sadeghiyeh or Ekhtiarieh. Sadeghiyeh has a major metro hub and a lot of small bakeries and tea shops tucked into the residential streets, but it's less polished than Vanak. Ekhtiarieh is quieter and greener, with a few solid cafes near Shariati Street, and you can walk to the Tajrish metro line if you don't mind 10-15 minutes. The trade-off is that these spots feel more local and less international, so you won't find as many chain places, but the rent is noticeably lower and you get a real sense of neighborhood life.

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fwiw i'd throw Yousefabad into the mix. it's a bit south of Vanak but still on Valiasr, so metro access is solid and the cafes around Yousefabad square are more lowkey and cheaper than Vanak's. theres this stretch on Sanaei Street with a couple of hidden gems that do good filter coffee, and you can walk to the weekly fruit market on Fridays near the intersection with Jomhouri. rent is noticeably less than Gholhak and you get a more lived-in vibe, less expat bubble if that matters to u. just know the sidewalks are even more chaotic down here, its part of the charm i guess

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honestly if you want walkable cafes and metro access, focus on the north-central parts like Gholhak or Vanak. Vanak Square area has a decent metro stop and plenty of those little coffee shops tucked into side streets, plus you're close to the main commercial drag on Valiasr. Gholhak is a bit quieter but still has a handful of nice spots around the main street, and the metro's right there too. just be aware that "walkable" in Tehran still means a lot of uneven sidewalks and crossing wide streets, so it's more about density of stuff than actual pleasant strolling. rent will be higher up north, but for 5 months it's worth it

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