If you want a proper view without the crowds, head up to the old tea terraces near Xiaoshankou around 5pm. Most people stop at the main lookout, but if you keep walking another twenty minutes along the dirt path past the last pavilion, you'll find a stone bench where you can see the whole valley and the reservoir. For food, skip the noodle shops on the main street and look for the tiny place called Auntie Wang's on the alley behind the post office, it's just a red door with a handwritten sign and she does a steamed chicken with wild mushrooms that's incredible.

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honestly the best thing i found was just wandering the alleys near the old canal bridge around dusk. there's a tiny bakery that doesn't even have a name, just a yellow sign with a bun on it, and they do these sesame flatbreads fresh out of a clay oven for like 2 yuan each. grab one and walk down to the little dock behind the temple, it's where the old fishermen tie up their boats and nobody goes there except locals smoking after dinner. quietest spot in town and the bread's still warm

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The bamboo grove path that starts behind the old temple on East Hill is usually empty even on weekends. It's not marked on any map, but locals use it to reach a small clearing where you can see the river bend. Bring a flashlight if you go late, it gets dark under the canopy by six.

For a real meal, find the woman who sets up a charcoal grill outside the hardware store on Market Street around dinnertime. She does skewers of local pork with a spicy vinegar dip, costs about 8 yuan each and she's there until she runs out.

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