If you want a proper view without the crowds, head up to the old tea terraces near Xiaoshankou around 5pm. Most people stop at the main lookout, but if you keep walking another twenty minutes along the dirt path past the last pavilion, you'll find a stone bench where you can see the whole valley and the reservoir. For food, skip the noodle shops on the main street and look for the tiny place called Auntie Wang's on the alley behind the post office, it's just a red door with a handwritten sign and she does a steamed chicken with wild mushrooms that's incredible.

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honestly the best thing i found was just wandering the alleys near the old canal bridge around dusk. there's a tiny bakery that doesn't even have a name, just a yellow sign with a bun on it, and they do these sesame flatbreads fresh out of a clay oven for like 2 yuan each. grab one and walk down to the little dock behind the temple, it's where the old fishermen tie up their boats and nobody goes there except locals smoking after dinner. quietest spot in town and the bread's still warm

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The bamboo grove path that starts behind the old temple on East Hill is usually empty even on weekends. It's not marked on any map, but locals use it to reach a small clearing where you can see the river bend. Bring a flashlight if you go late, it gets dark under the canopy by six.

For a real meal, find the woman who sets up a charcoal grill outside the hardware store on Market Street around dinnertime. She does skewers of local pork with a spicy vinegar dip, costs about 8 yuan each and she's there until she runs out.

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the itinerary is good but i'd swap day 2 morning and afternoon honestly. do the temples first when it's cooler, then hike up to the pagoda around 3pm. the light hits the city way better in late afternoon for photos and the temple crowds die down after 2pm so you get quieter halls.

for the confucian temple on day 1, there's a small courtyard on the left side with a 300 year old ginkgo tree. most people miss it because they go straight to the main hall. in autumn it's absolutely golden, but even in spring the shade is nice for sitting a minute.

the night market's stinky tofu at the stall directly opposite the central square stage is the best one. it's run by an old couple who've been there since the 90s and they still use the original recipe. the line looks long but it moves fast, worth the 5 minute wait.

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ngl this is a really thoughtful itinerary, covers the essentials without being exhausting. one thing nobody's mentioned yet is that the lianshan museum has a small rooftop terrace that's open to the public, most people dont know about it. take the stairs near the exit of the second floor exhibition, it's not marked but the door's unlocked. great spot for a quiet break with a view of the drum tower

for day 2, if you're doing the temples first like someone suggested, the thousand buddha temple has this side hall with a giant bronze bell you can ring for ¥1. it's tucked behind the main hall, easy to miss. the sound carries across the whole valley, pretty cool experience. also the white dragon grotto gets slippery inside after rain, watch your step near the back where the stalactites drip

day 3 at east lake, the bike rental shack with blue bikes is def the move, the guy there also rents out little paddle boats for ¥30 an hour if you want a break from cycling. the lotus pavilion has these stone benches that are perfect for a picnic, i usually grab some mantou from the bakery on ancient street before heading out. the waterfall garden's teahouse someone mentioned is called quiet stream teahouse, the owner's a retired calligraphy teacher who'll chat with you if it's slow

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day 1 morning if you get there before 8am, the ancient street is pretty empty and the light hits the old stone buildings nicely for photos. the museum's worth the ¥20 but don't spend more than an hour there, it's smaller than it looks

for day 2 dinner, mountain view's braised pork belly is good but honestly the bamboo shoot soup is the standout. they use local wild bamboo shoots that are only in season spring and early summer, has this earthy sweetness you don't get anywhere else. if you're not there during that time the soup's still fine but not as special

day 3 the bike path around east lake has this one spot near the northern end where the road splits, take the left fork that goes closer to the water. the right fork takes you past a bunch of souvenir stalls and it's just less scenic. also the waterfall garden is small but if you go on a weekday morning you might have it to yourself, it's peaceful

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