Skip the Orla de Atalaia tourist strip and head to the bairro Industrial for lunch at Bar do Deca. They serve a mean caranguejada, a crab stew that locals swear by, and it's served in an unassuming open-air spot with sawdust on the floor. You'll probably be the only tourist there, and the price for a full spread is about R$40 per person. For a quiet afternoon, walk up to the Mirante da 13 de Julho around sunset instead of the crowded Passarela do Caranguejo.

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honestly, the best thing i did in aracaju was just wandering around the centro histórico on a weekday morning. the Mercado Municipal Antônio Franco has this tiny stall in the back that sells a fried fish pastry called a "pastel de sururu" for like R$5. it's nothing fancy, just a plastic chair and a counter, but the flavor is unreal. also, if you're there on a saturday, the feira do Turista in the same area is way less hyped than the one in Orla but has better handmade stuff and cheaper cachaça

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